Replacing a timing belt on a 2. I've heard lots of horror stories about technicians who did this job carelessly and regretted it later. Therefore, this month I'll focus on details that will help you do it correctly the first time. This article concerns the popular ABA version of Volkswagen's 2.
The easiest way to identify it is to look for the letters "ABA" stamped into the front of the block above the crankcase breather. Be sure you have the appropriate shop manual or timing belt service guide for an ABA before you begin. Unlike most other engines you've serviced, this one doesn't have an official, mandated timing belt replacement interval.
However, belt manufacturers as well as VW specialists recommend 60, miles as being a reasonable replacement interval. Considering that this is an interference engine, you'll want to remind customers that a simple t-belt job is always much cheaper than replacing bent valves-or worse.
The most critical part of a successful, routine t-belt job on an ABA engine is identifying and aligning all the timing marks. At the very least, slowly rotate the engine until three marks are properly lined up at the same time: camshaft sprocket, distributor rotor and flywheel. First, locate the letters "O" and "T" on the camshaft sprocket and dab them with white paint so they're easier to see. In photo 1 below you can see that these letters are on either side of a "valley" in the cam sprocket.
Next, identify O. When the marks are correctly aligned, this arrow should point directly at the valley between the letters "O" and "T" on the cam sprocket. The second timing mark is on the flywheel. Remove the access plug from the bellhousing and on manual-trans cars look for either a deep notch or a "0" on the flywheel. Photo 2 shows the common "0" mark. Line up the deep notch or the "0" with the little pointer that's cast into the bellhousing's access hole.
Aligning the timing mark on an ABA engine with an automatic trans is a little bit trickier. The drawing at right shows that the bellhousing's access hole is somewhat oval-shaped, with a flat lower edge.
On an automatic, the timing mark is also a "0. The third important timing mark is a deep notch in the top of the distributor housing that points toward the rear of the car. This notch, which happens to line up with the No.
When you remove the distributor cap, you'll see that the cam position sensor's black dust cover is notched out to reveal this notch. Dab this notch with white paint to make it more visible. When the cam sprocket and flywheel marks are both properly aligned, the distributor rotor should be pointing directly at this notch in the top of the distributor housing.
Again, the very minimum you must do is properly align all three of the above-mentioned timing marks before proceeding with this timing belt replacement. For example, suppose the rotor tip is just leading ahead of or just trailing behind the distributor notch.
If so, then it really should be pointing at exactly the same position when you double-check the timing marks after installing the new belt. Unfortunately, you can't move the distributor wherever and whenever you want because the distributor hold-down bolt slides between two locating pins pressed into the base of the distributor. This engine has a cam belt-driven intermediate shaft. When the rotor tip is misaligned after a timing belt job, the intermediate shaft sprocket is usually off a tooth or two, Stafford told me.
He noted that there's a timing mark on the intermediate sprocket that resembles a chisel mark. It may take a mirror and some patience to find it, but it's there. When all three of the critical timing marks described earlier are aligned, this chisel mark happens to line up with the timing mark on the front drive belt pulley. Stallman stresses that lining up this fourth set of marks minimizes or eliminates the risk of the distributor rotor being misaligned after a t-belt replacement.
So, patiently locate the chisel mark on the intermediate sprocket and dab it with white paint.I have a 97 vw jetta 2. I removed the distributor to change it and believe I jumped some teeth on the timing belt. I am gonna go ahead and change the belt but unsure about the timing marks. With the cam lined up with the mark on the cover the timing mark doesn't show threw the bell housing.
If I turn the crank pulley to line up with the marks on the timing cover, nothing else lines up cam or drive plate? I was thinking if the drive plate was lined up the crank would also be lined up. I guess I am just wondering if all three things are on different pulleys and need aligned separately? Any advise on getting these all lined up properly would be appreciated. Thanks steve.
I actually didn't install the distributor yet. When I turned the cam and tried to line up the cam and crank it didn't line up so I was afraid to go any further until I addressed that. I doubt you jumped teeth on the T-Belt just by removing the distributor, you probably didn't get it in right, ie. Now you know. The camshaft pulley is lined up on the mark on the backing plate.
The crankshaft pulley timing mark will be very near the mark on the timing cover. The flywheel mark may, or may not be visible in timing hole on the manual transmission. If you have an auto trans, the 0 mark on the Torque Converter may be off in the window near the starter.
You really don't need it anyway. Just use some pliers to move the oil pump drive to match the distributor shaft. When you replace the T-Belt, get the cam and crank on their marks, and then set the belt tension.
Then install the distributor in time. Get the mark close when you stab it in, and then turn the distributor body to make the final adjustment.
Get a service manual, there are some good pictures of what the timing marks should look like, especially, the distributor marks. Or go to VWVortex for some pictures. Please be aware the crankshaft pulley bolt is a Replace After Removal Bolt.
That bolt should not be reused. Trending News.
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Wallace grills Lara Trump for breaking debate rule.Just finished engine rebuild on 2. Get it roughly to TDC, then as you turn the wheel the notch is to the left of the teeth. You have to get your head right in the engine bay on the right hand side and look towards the the arrow shaped ally on the casing.
The notch will only be visible either side of the arrow shape as it hide behinds it when in correct position. What a mission to find it and i still couldnt be sure it was right until we ran the engine and it was.
Good luck!!!! Generally, for most single cam engines, there is a dot or mark on the cam sprocket and a similar mark on the crank sprocket.
Point them at each other. The cam timing on a 4. This sets the initial timing based on factory settings. On my Metro with a 1. A cam sprocket is a part which is attached to one end of a cam shaft in an engine. A cam sprocket, along with the timing belt maintain the timing between the camshaft and crankshaft, which ensures that the engine runs properly. Point the intake cam lobe down and the timing mark on the cam gear at the 12 o clock position with the piston at TDC.
Start by putting the flywheel on the T mark or on top dead center with the piston up. With both lobes on the cam facing down the pointers on the cam gear and the mark on the top of engine should be ligned up. Where is the mark on the top of the engine. If this is the same engine as mine in a Nov '98 Holden vectra and you are talking about cam timing, the 4 bolts need to come off the crank pulley so you can see the notch that needs to line up with the notch on the sumpcasting goving TDC on No.
There is no timing adjustment. Put the 8mm bolts through the holes in both the cam sprockets at the correct points bottom and the mark on the crank gear with the mark on the chain housing UPand that is all you can do as far as timing.
Everything is 0 degrees TDC. If this engine ever gets too far out of time, it will be a disaster for the engine. Some have a timing chain, some have a timing belt.
It depends on the engine and year. On a Ford Ranger : no The 2. In a Ford Ranger : The 2. Asked By Curt Eichmann. Asked By Leland Grant.
Aftermarket Flywheels Vs. Factory Vw Timing Marks
Asked By Veronica Wilkinson. Asked By Daija Kreiger. Asked By Danika Abbott. Asked By Consuelo Hauck.Diesel engines are timed slightly differently than gasoline engines. Not only are the timing marks found in different locations, they are also used to time the fuel-injector pump. Volkswagen's TDI engine is a turbo direct injection four-cylinder engine and has been used by Volkswagen for over 25 years on a variety of models, both front- and rear-wheel drive.
The timing marks on the Volkswagen TDI 1. TDC is when the No. Open and secure the hood. Look down at the back of the engine, where the transmission mounts to the engine. This is either facing the windshield on rear-wheel drive VWs or on the driver's side on front-wheel drive vehicles. At the point where the transmission mounts to the engine is an opening, allowing you to see either the torque converter on automatic transmissions or the flywheel on manual transmissions. Shine the flashlight down to locate the opening.
Depending on the particular year and model, remove any obstructions with the socket wrench and sockets, using the extension as needed. Put the Volkswagen in neutral and have a helper crank the engine over using a breaker bar with a 19mm-long socket.
Replacing a Timing Belt
Place the socket on the center bolt of the crankshaft pulley the lowest pulleylocated between the engine and the radiator. Have your helper slowly turn the engine clockwise. Look carefully into the opening for the timing mark to appear as the engine is cranked. On manual transmissions, the flywheel teeth are visible, and when the mark appears, it must be in the center, aligning with the "V.
This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.
To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us. Instructions for TDI 1. Step 1 Open and secure the hood. Step 2 Put the Volkswagen in neutral and have a helper crank the engine over using a breaker bar with a 19mm-long socket. About the Author This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.Forums New posts Search forums.
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I lined up the timing mark on the flywheel to where I think it is supposed to be at TDC. Does anyone have a picture of the flywheel mark at TDC? I saw it somewhere, but can't find it now.
I Pulled the valve cover. The 1st two lobes on the cam are to each side, but not up. Is it possible to connect the engine to the flywheel incorrectly? If not then, Is it possible my cam is degrees out and engine still run? I'm thinking my problem may be fixable if I take the belt loose, align the cam to where it should be at TDC with flywheel where it should be at TDC.
Does that sound right or does it sound like I'm about to mess up my motor further? AndyBees Top Post Dawg. Flywheel will only bolt to the crankshaft in one position. The cam cannot be off degrees and the engine be able to run. TDC mark on the flywheel is there and almost impossible to see without removing the air filter box I think you need to find a guru to take a look at the car!
Last edited: Jun 4, AndyBees said:. MidnightBlue Well-known member. MidnightBlue said:. Does "change the motor" mean put in a whole new motor and change the timing belt on it while it was out? If so - what was the condition of the motor before? The cam rotates degress per full revolution of the crank, right? Have you tried turning the flywheel around a full turn and checking the cam then? Bought a used engine from an auctioned car. Not knowing the history it seemed like a good idea to change the belt while the engine was out.Ignition timing is when the distributor sends an electric spark into the engine to ignite the fuel.
This fuel ignition is what powers the car. The sequence in which this happens is very finely balanced, or "tuned," to provide maximum power and economy. When he timing is not set properly the car may experience hard starting, low power or bad gas mileage. Setting the timing is normally an easy task, but sometimes the manufacturer's timing marks are missing or damaged.
Setting the timing without any marks is not difficult with the right information and a few common tools. Mark the spark plug wires for the cylinder number using a short piece of masking tape on each wire.
Remove all the spark plugs using the spark plug wrench. The engine will be easier to turn by hand with the spark plugs removed and it's a good time to replace them if required. Remove the valve cover from over the number one cylinder. On a V-block engine this is normally the valve cover on the driver's side. On in-line engines the number one cylinder is the one closest to the front of the car. Check your vehicle's specifications to be sure which cylinder is number one. Rotate the engine clockwise and observe the valves on the number one cylinder.
When both valves are in the up position, insert a screwdriver into the number one cylinder through the spark plug hole. Rotate the engine very slowly back and forth until the screwdriver is at the maximum height. Locate the number one spark plug wire on distributor cap and make a tic-mark of this position with a marker pen on the distributor housing.
Remove the distributor cap and observe the position of the rotor. Loosen the distributor hold down bolt and turn distributor until the rotor is lined up with the mark you made in Step 3. Your timing is now set to zero degrees of mechanical timing.
Replace the valve cover using a new gasket. Replace the spark plugs and spark plug wires using the marks from Step 1. You may want to mark the harmonic balancer with a zero point referenced to a fixed point on the engine. A fixed point could be a bolt head or accessory bracket that does not move when the engine is running. Later on this mark can be used as an indicator for stroboscopic timing. Connect a vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum source.
Most engines will have a port at the base of the carburetor or throttle body where a gauge can be connected. Start the engine and observe the vacuum gauge reading. Turn the distributor until the maximum vacuum gauge reading is noted. Back off one inch of vacuum from the maximum reading. Tighten the distributor hold down bolt. Normal readings average from 14 to 21 inches of vacuum depending on the condition of the engine.
Test drive the vehicle and listen for pinging noises. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 if excessive pinging is heard, or if there is a significant loss of power. The timing is correct when the vehicle operates at maximum power without the engine hard starting, backfiring, or pinging on acceleration. This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.The VAG group 2.
We shall try to map out the differences between the engines and identify potential faults and issues with them. All modern engines have weak spots, by pointing these out we hope to prepare the buyer to spot potential issues early on.
We are not trying to make out that these engines are particularly unreliable or full of issues - I recently bought one after doing my research carefully. You should note that generally newer engines have had the faults engineered out completely. The common rail engines are superior to the PD engines although there were a few minor teething problems on early engines.
These engines were also implicated in the VAG group emissions scandal where the software would detect test conditions and reduce the emissions.
The pre bhp and bhp engines will generally need an uprated fuel pump and injectors to cope with power gains over bhp and we would recommend you get stronger head bolts. There is a Bosch and Siemens fuel pump used on these engines, the former flows better.
The 's can be mapped to fairly easily but beyond this you need to swap out the turbo, improve fuel delivery and use stronger head bolts. The Sachs racing clutch works well on this generation of engine, but we still think you'll be better off with a dual mass flywheel.
From we see the EA engine released as the VW group move on from the emissions scandal the and bhp models have smaller turbos, and you can replace the turbo and remap quite easily. The OEM fuel pumps on the CR engines are generally good for around bhp, upgrade them and the injectors if you go beyond this or risk the dreaded limp home mode. Some bhp will need fuel pump and injector upgrades before this. On the EA engines we note that the Bi-turbo variants use the same fuel pump and injectors but run them at a higher pressure rather than bigger injectors at same pressure as the single turbo so there is quite a bit of leeway and headroom on these units.
There are plenty of reports of DPF issues requiring a dealer regen. If you drive it hot, go on long journeys and use high quality fuel you should have no problem at all. There are also reports of a faulty fan controller where fan doesn't switch off, eventually draining the battery and potentially burning out the fan. The 2.
VAG has tried to solve both issues, by replacing the chain by gears, that seems to be a working solution.
Still a very problematic issue that needs to be addressed. Luckily enough there is a solution, for the PD and CR engines. The hp 2. EA engines have been revised and we have not yet been made aware of a recurrence of this issue.
Look carefully at the letter at the end of this. If you have A you are virtually guaranteed to suffer a cracked cylinder head. The B is a little stronger but a few of these have still cracked. C is the one to go for and there are very few if any reports of cylinder heads cracking.
Keep a close eye on engines with the A or B codes, particularly if there are any faults or issues arising. If yours should go we would suggest getting a high torque flywheel from Sachs as the price is similar and they are substantially stronger.
There are few major differences between the and engines. In fact a engine can be upgraded to bhp with a remap in our opinion it is a better choice than buying a ! The main differences are the turbo and injectors.